He aha te whāinga o ngā āhuatanga pōpōki ki runga i te rēwana?

Kei te mōhiotia ēnei āhua pōpōki hei huinga dobby. Ko te kupu "dobby" i tōna mai i te "dobby loom" ki te ahumahi rēwana.

I whakaputua mai tēnei rōpere, i āwhinaa mai i te hangarau rōpere a te wehewehe Ingarangi a Joseph Marie Jacquard i te mutunga o te rautau tua 18, kātahi ka whakapai ake ki tētahi tikanga whakahaere tino māmā. Mā te whakahaere i te pikinga me te heke o ngā rārangi pūtōrino, ka taea e te rōpere dobby te waihanga i ngā tauira ā-hiko rite, i ngā wāhi kauwhata rānei, engari kāore i ngā pōpōki katoa o tētahi rēwana noa.

Ko te "pae dobby" ki tētahi paraihe he wāhanga kua whakarāpua, he pae anake i tāpirihia ki te whiria terry, e waihangatia ai te āhua "kotikoti". He aha i te pae dobby e whakapai ake ai i te kaha whakapōpō? Ko te kaha o te mōwe o te wai e whakapōpō ana i te wai i te mahinga capillary, ko te kaha o te wai ki te rere atu i ngā wāhi pakaru pakaru, e hāngai ana ki te rahi o ngā rohe pakaru-whakawhitinga. E ai ki te ture o te mahinga capillary, ko ngā paraihe me ngā pakaru-whakawhitinga iti ake, kīato ake he nui ake te kaha whakapōpō. Anō hoki, ko te matāpuna matua e pa ana ki te kaha whakapōpō o te paraihe ko te matāpuna. Hei tauira, ko te Xinjiang long-staple cotton, te Egyptian cotton, te Pima cotton, me te Turkish cotton kua whakaaetia kia nui ake te kaha whakapōpō nā te whakapapa roa o ngā tahā. Ka taea e ngā tahā roa enei te whiria ki ngā aha iti ake, kaha ake, e whakapōpō ai i te wai, e pupuri ai anō hoki. Tuarua, ko te whiria o te paraihe he mea nui. Ko te nuinga o ngā paraihe he hanganga terry pōroto, e whakamahi ana i ngā aha pōroto hei whakapla te rohe mata me te maha o ngā capillaries waenganui i ngā tahā. Ko te 1mm teitei ake o te pōroto ka whakapla ake i te whakapōpō wai i te 15% ki te 20% pērā i te hanganga pōroto e whakapla ai i ētahi atu wāhi pakaru-whakawhitinga.

E ai ki te AATCC 79-2000, te Tuhinga Whakarite Kaihau o Amerika mō te Wātea Whakauru Kaihau, ko te wā whakauru wai mō te kaihau tākarotia he 3 ki te 5 hēkona, i te wā e 7 ki te 10 hēkona mō te whatu tuanui (pērā ki te whatu dobby), arā he rerekētanga mai i te 30% ki te 50%. Nō reira, he iti ake te whakauru a dobby whatu i te wai i te kaihau tākarotia. Kei te whakapāhunu hoki ētahi tangata: He tere ake i te paraihe dobby? Mēnā ko te whatu dobby he iti ake te whakauru wai, he iti ake pea te kaihau o te paraihe. Ki te whakamāmā i te tākarotia terry e noho ana 19% o te pātītanga mata o te paraihe me te whakauru hoki ko te haurua ake i te whatu terry, ko te kaihau o te katoa ka iti ake i te 10%. Arā, ka tere ake te paraihe e horo. Heoi anō, e rerekē ana tēnei pānga i te whakamahinga, ā, kāore pea i te nui tonu i te ao tūmatanui.
Nō reira, i te mutunga, he nui ake te thread terry he āhua noa iho.

Heoi anō, ko tētahi atu ine tūmatanui e pa ana ki te kaha whakapipi ake o te parakete ko tana kaha (GSM), e tohu ana i te taumaha o te tapa ki te mita tapawhā. Ko te ine i te rahi me te kaha o te tapa, e pa ana ki tana kaha whakapipi. Ko ngā parakete ki te GSM teitei he nui ake te rahi o te tapa me te kaha ki te pupuri i te wai.